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Buckden to Aysgarth (9 miles) Today we follow Roman roads and medieval lanes from Wharfedale to Wensleydale. On the way, we witness the birth of Bishopdale -- one of Yorkshire's little-known minor dales.

From Buckden take the clear path that begins at the north end of the village car park. This 2000-year-old track rises at an easy gradient through Rakes Wood for 3/4 mile. We are following the course of one of Agricola's Roman roads, built to carry his legions across Kidstones Pass, from Ilkley to Bainbridge. Shortly after emerging from the oaks, sycamores, and beeches, follow the ancient track as it bends right, to contour the hillside. About 1/4 mile beyond this bend, ignore the path leading steeply up to the right unless you want to climb Buckden Pike (which tends to be boggy but does give glorious views over Wharfedale, Littondale, and Langstrothdale). After a second mile of easy walking along a hillside terrace with a stone wall on your left, the path leads across a field to reach the B6160 road.

A short-cut down the fields to your left leads to Cray and its pub, the White Lion. The isolated pub presents a rather forlorn picture. "Do Not Eat Your Own Food" and "Do Not Park & Walk" signs hardly generate a friendly atmosphere. The natural setting is as full of beauty and interest as ever, but the pub does not seem to participate. Nothing appears to have changed much since Alfred Wainwright's visit in 1938.* It was desolate and grey then, and it is desolate and grey now. *A. Wainwright, A Pennine Journey: Story of a Long Walk in 1938. (London, Michael Joseph, 1986).

Returning to the path, just before you reach the road, notice the small three-tiered waterfall ("force") on your right. This merry little cascade is but a foretaste of more to come in Wensleydale. A sign on the roadside gate explains the area near Cray is under care of the Countryside Commission and English Heritage [Society]. We have them to thank for the sturdy ladder stiles we have been using. Next comes a short road march up the hill. This is a steepish bit, but after ten minutes you're up. The road has wide green verges; don't hesitate to use them if you encounter cars.

After 1/2 mile, a gravelled track forks left from the main road to snake its way up the moorside. This is a continuation of the Roman road we began to follow at the Buckden car park. It leads over the broad felltops across Stake Allotments and becomes a green Drove Road leading down the other side. It was one of Wainwright's favorite routes. But it is not our path today.

We continue on the road for another 1/2 mile -- a quick traverse across the flat pass that separates Wharfedale from Wensleydale and Bishopdale. A clump of trees beside the road soon becomes visible ahead. Beyond the trees, tantalizing vistas open up.

Just before you reach the trees and a "Welcome to Richmondshire" sign, a farm track leads off to your left. Ignore this cul-de-sac. Continue on the road past the clump of trees, which include beech, ash, sycamore and maple, and admire the views now unfolding before you to the north. Bishopdale is one of Yorkshire�s undiscovered places.

Landranger Map #98 (Yorkshire Dales)